THE CRAG
The crag is accessible through Kamares. Rock is grey and red limestone, of good quality. Routes are short (max 15m) and ideal for beginner fans of the sport or those who just want to try it out on their holiday, since the crag lies in the shade from 10:00 on, plus low altitude helps in familiarising and the plateau beneath provides ample room for practice. It may also interest advanced climbers because some routes require intense and rather skilled moves with small handholds or negative angle passages. Grades range from 5c to 6c+.
The Mavri Spilia is a 14-route crag, created in 2019 by Dimitris Titopoulos and Antonis Tsesmetzoglou, who were commissioned by the Municipal Community Enterprise of Sifnos.
An area of good quality grey and red limestone. Face with both easy and intense/very technical routes with small handholds or negative angle passages. Route bases have nametags.
There are 14 routes, 12 to 15m in altitude, graded from 5c to 6c+. Routes are short and ideal for beginners who wish to take up rock climbing or just try it out on their holiday. But it may also interest those more advanced, as some of the routes entail intense and very technical moves with small handholds or negative angle passages. All routes feature safety measures with inox bolts and plates as well as inox carabiner belays.
Rope recommended, at least 40m, 10 sets, baudrier, belay device, helmet, climbing shoes.
Spring, summer and fall present ideal conditions. Ideal to climb after 10:00 in the summertime due to its NE orientation.
The crag is located at Kamares, Sifnos, and at a distance of 800m from the central parking lot at the port.
ACCESS
Mavri Spilia: Purple route
On foot
Starting at Kamares square, head out towards Apollonia. In 150m turn right at Dexamenis street and then left at the second alley (Pigis street). Reach the cul-de-sac, a dirt road. Park and take the trail that starts at the last house (a goat path). Follow the signposts for 450m which crosses the stream and continue uphill towards the rocks seen protruding up high. Crag lies behind that overhang.
Total distance from Kamares square: 950m; from parking lot: 800m; from camping park: 1,050m.
By car
Distance from Kamares parking is only 800m and there is no need for a car, as the last 450m morph into a pathway.